Below 60FPS?

Thanks Rahja, Tried those settings in Control Panel and it still doesn't work. For some reason the fps is now capped at around 56-58 most of the time.

That's typical. There's a hard cap of 60 on vsych, but it often will stop around the high 50s instead - Turn off vsych to see your real cap. Not to mention that it really doesn't matter, the eye can only register about half of that, and vsych gets rid of the half-screen lines you'll see on high FPS.

Turned off v-sync and got below 60fps in ToA. I just don't get it

I don't see it anywhere in the thread - what are your temps looking like (measured with nVidia's System Monitor or Rivatuner)? Modern graphics cards can tolerate extraordinary temps but if the heatsink loses direct contact with the GPU core (1MM difference, even) the GPU might start throttling itself.

When I turn off Vertical Sync and put my graphics levels all the way down I can get up to 400 FPS. ^^

When I'm playing Gw, temps stay at about 57-61 for the gpu. Also, the cpu stays at around 50-55. At idle the gpu is at 40'ish while its the same for the cpu

Neither of you seem to understand basic electrical circuits. You toss around terms like "efficiency" and "pull" with ease. If "pull" means anything, it's only just a convenient way of envisioning a concept and would generally be classified as "lingo" whose meaning can vary depending upon who's using the term. There's no sense complaining about one misuse of the term over another.
If you want to be technical about it, current results from the difference in "potential" between the negative and positive poles of a circuit (measured as Voltage). Whether you want to say that current is "pulled" or "pushed" through the circuit is not important. (However, it is basically only one or the other.)

Voltage multiplied by Amps equals Wattage - they (plus Resistance) are all inter-related and are not "VERY different" - they're all part of the package.

The power available on the particular circuit which supplies the video card is what matters. The overall wattage of the power supply is not entirely relevant, although it's a indicator of the power available. You could build a power supply that delivers 100 amps at 5 volts (500 watts) and only 1 amp at 12volts (12 watts), and it would add up to 512 watts, but wouldn't run any normal video card. (I know it's an extreme example.)

The efficiency of the PS is not relevant. The efficiency affects how much power is wasted in converting the AC from the wall to the DC output. For example, a power supply that is 80% efficient would take 625 watts from the AC to produce 500 watts out. A 50% efficient supply would use 1000watts to produce the 500watts out. The main point is that they both supply 500watts at the output. (and I realize this is just a simplified version without power factors etc.)

But anyway, blah, blah, blah. The original topic has been high-jacked.

P.s. - Credentials - 34 years working for the Defense Department as an Electronics Technologist (1 bin below engineer) on Torpedo and Missile guidance systems. I used to "know my stuff" once, but, admittedly, it's getting a bit rusty now.

Mine too, but not that low. I'm usually at 20-30.

I found a bench mark on Tom's Hardware where they used a driver close to the same revision you used. They used 182.08 while you used 186.18. Here is a link to thier scores. http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/...90,2262-7.html
At 1680x1050 AA=4x 64Bit, Quality set to "High Details" they got 34.4 FPS. You had your details set to VeryHigh so I am not sure how that works out.
It could be power, driver or both still. But remember they are using a clean system.

P.s. - Following Quaker's lead - Credentials - FCC Class 1 Lic (1977) worked in an electronics repair shop rebuilding radio systems and anything else I needed too. And like Quaker, I used to "know my stuff" once, but that was before the "Digital craze" as a few friends call it. Alas, I too am a bit rusty now. Not sure I could design and build a circuit if I had to now.

I can try to give you a custom BIOS, but you will need to save your current vBIOS and upload it via Rapidshare. Toss me a link to it.

You can use Nibitor to grab the vBIOS file to upload. Here is a download link:

http://www.softpedia.com/get/Tweak/V...S-Editor.shtml