6800GS - Comments, Questions, Concerns?

Well I woke up a couple days ago to discover a new GPU called the Nvidia 6800GS, and the slogan was, "released just in time for the holidays!" Now I am wondering what the difference is between it and the other 6800 cards. There are now 4 types of 6800 cards, which I will compare:

'Vanilla' 6800

Core Clock: 325mhz
Memory Clock: 700mhz
Pixel Pipes: 12
Interface: PCI-E/AGP
Average Price: $190

6800GS

Core Clock: 425mhz
Memory Clock: 1000mhz
Pixel Pipes: 12
Interface: PCI-E
Average Price (At time of release): $205

6800GT

Core Clock: 350mhz
Memory Clock: 1000mhz
Pixel Pipes: 16
Interface: PCI-E/AGP
Average Price: $295

6800 Ultra

Apparently these aren't made anymore, so I only found refurbished ones on Newegg, but that doesn't mean specs change.

Core Clock: 400mhz
Memory Clock: 1050mhz - 1100mhz
Pixel Pipes: 16
Interface: PCI-E
Average Price: 256MB Version - $300 512MB Version - $400

Now here is the time I finally realize that Nvidia prices their cards on par with standards. Look at the 6800GS, compare and contrast. If you notice it has similar specs to the 256MB 6800 Ultra, which is around $300, but the GS is about $100 cheaper. With decent cooling you can probably unlock those extra 4 pipelines and have yourself and ultra.

I personally think that the 6800GS looks to be a solid, affordable, high quality alternative now. I think people might be sayin bye-bye to the Vanilla.

What do you guys think about it?

The GS will probably be the next best bang for the buck on NVidia's side now that the Ultra model is has been retired. The GPU core will probably be the same as all the other 6800's, but unlocking the pipes shouldn't be fine assuming no production defects.

I'm stuck on the fence since I'm can't decide between new gaming desktop vs. Dell XPS M170

Found a review of it:
http://www.guru3d.com/article/Videocards/278/

Requiers 350w single or 420w for SLI power supply.
I would say it just behind the GT overall but has a newer core ...

From the conclusion

I just hope they have an AGP version of this

since they mentioned overclocking WITHOUT being able to unlock the 4 extra pipes that says to me that NV has hard locked them down to prevent just that from cutting sales of the other

Dangit, I was gonna try to get my hands on one and unlock them

This might be a stupid question but...

How do I check what power supply I have?

On the back of the power supply should be a sticker with all the information, worst case you have to open up your case and it should be on one of the sides of the power supply inside of the case.

Just below the place where the power cord goes into the tower there's a red switch with 230 written on it (abeit very faintly). Is that it? Does 230w sound plausible if I'm running a p4 3.0 with a Geforce MX440 128mb AGP 8x?

Thanks.

Yes but don't expect to upgrade to any power-hungry video card, you might want to get a 400+ W.

You found it, you have a 230w power supply. Most system builders, Dell, HP, Compaq make there system to just meet the power needs. I would upgrade your power supply Suvat if you plan on getting a newer card. If you bought your system from Dell, HP, etc, I would contact them to find out if you can upgrade to a standard power supply (if off warranty) or on the slim chance the power supply is non-standard unique to them (or if opening your case voids a current warranty), you may have to upgrade from them.

Is it possible that a power supply has 2 different wattage settings? Because the switch that has the 230 on it is actually next to (and therefore separate) from the on/off switch. Should I attempt to move the switch to see what's the other wattage setting (if there is one) or is there a chance I could break something?

Thanks a lot for your help guys, really appreciate it

Don't touch that switch. What country do you live in.
That may be the AC standard for the power supply.
Out of the four situation that could happen, one will kill your pc.

It should be a sticker or label that has it printed on it.

If your own the US power grid:
110 - pc works
230 - pc doesn't turn on (no damage)

If your own the EU power grid:
230 - pc works
110 - fried pc

I'm in Australia, where the power output is 240V AC

Very good thing you did not switch it

It may be inside the case on one of the sides. If you void a warrenty to open it, I would call your tech support and find out, if not, you may have to open it up.