Overclocking made simple
Brianna
Soo.. about over-clocking.. just kidding.
I like that case more and more now.. I blame you Snog. I must resist buying anything though. I just paid off my monitor which was my birthday present to myself (and my birthday is still yet to come) Just couldn't wait.
I like that case more and more now.. I blame you Snog. I must resist buying anything though. I just paid off my monitor which was my birthday present to myself (and my birthday is still yet to come) Just couldn't wait.
Admael
Lets talk about overclocking! ... NOT just kidding.
Dark Kal
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snograt
Yes, slot 0 is FUBAR. Not only will memory in that slot not work, the PC will not boot at all if anything is present in that slot.
Sounds like a good old-fashioned short circuit to me. |
Snograt
But, but, but...
I hadn't even started to overclock yet
I bust it transferring it from one case to another. Still can't imagine how.
I hadn't even started to overclock yet
I bust it transferring it from one case to another. Still can't imagine how.
Brianna
Quote:
Originally Posted by Admael
Lets talk about overclocking! ... NOT just kidding.
|
moriz
NOW! back to original topic.
my E7200 is currently overclocked to 3.2ghz (400mhz FSB X 8) and 1.250v core. idle, it sits at 33C. under full load, it goes up to ~60C. is this huge temperature range normal? and more importantly, is 60C under full load (with orthos torture test) normal for it?
strangely enough, my CPU fan never seems to speed up. it just keeps spinning at around 1000RPM no matter what kind of load i put onto it. maybe the threshold for it is set higher than 60C, but i somewhat doubt it. it's currently set as "performance" in the BIOS, which i assume that it will always spin fast. doesn't seem to do anything though.
my E7200 is currently overclocked to 3.2ghz (400mhz FSB X 8) and 1.250v core. idle, it sits at 33C. under full load, it goes up to ~60C. is this huge temperature range normal? and more importantly, is 60C under full load (with orthos torture test) normal for it?
strangely enough, my CPU fan never seems to speed up. it just keeps spinning at around 1000RPM no matter what kind of load i put onto it. maybe the threshold for it is set higher than 60C, but i somewhat doubt it. it's currently set as "performance" in the BIOS, which i assume that it will always spin fast. doesn't seem to do anything though.
Brianna
I'd say that 33C idle for an OC'd chip is insanely good, my athlon 3.0ghz non over clocked sits at higher than that, in idle I think.
60C is pretty rough at full load though, probably not a good idea to keep it running at that temperature for a long time. I'd say something like 50C under load or even 55C would be less scary, but anything under those temperatures even would be more ideal.
Good job though, glad that it works.
60C is pretty rough at full load though, probably not a good idea to keep it running at that temperature for a long time. I'd say something like 50C under load or even 55C would be less scary, but anything under those temperatures even would be more ideal.
Good job though, glad that it works.
moriz
idle temperatures didn't change between 2.53ghz and 3.2ghz, which i found rather surprising. to be exact, core 0 idles at 36C, core 1 idles at 33C. under any sort of load, the two will even out. i'm assuming it's because most of vista is running on core 0, resulting in slightly higher temperatures.
anyways, i ran orthos test through the night. unfortunately, windows update decided to kick in early this morning and restarted my computer, which means that orthos only ran for about 4 hours or so. there was no errors reported, but like i said, temperatures held at 59-60C throughout.
the computer is currently running the test throughout the day while i'm at work. i'll post results after i go home. i'm still a bit worried about the CPU fan not speeding up. maybe i need to update the BIOS or something, since i can't even manually set the fan higher with speedfan.
anyways, i ran orthos test through the night. unfortunately, windows update decided to kick in early this morning and restarted my computer, which means that orthos only ran for about 4 hours or so. there was no errors reported, but like i said, temperatures held at 59-60C throughout.
the computer is currently running the test throughout the day while i'm at work. i'll post results after i go home. i'm still a bit worried about the CPU fan not speeding up. maybe i need to update the BIOS or something, since i can't even manually set the fan higher with speedfan.
Snograt
Big new case, lots of fans, huuuuge cpu cooler.
Idles at 48-54C oO
Idles at 48-54C oO
moriz
test completed. here are the results:
CPUZ:
stresstesting results:
updated WEI:
overclock is successful i guess.
the only two problems were: CPU under full load goes up to 61C, and that orthos and dxdiag claims that the cores are running at 3.8ghz, when it should be 3.2ghz. i guess those two programs cannot detect that i've set my multiplier to 8x, instead of 9.5x.
CPUZ:
stresstesting results:
updated WEI:
overclock is successful i guess.
the only two problems were: CPU under full load goes up to 61C, and that orthos and dxdiag claims that the cores are running at 3.8ghz, when it should be 3.2ghz. i guess those two programs cannot detect that i've set my multiplier to 8x, instead of 9.5x.
maraxusofk
are u using a stock cpu fan? i really suggest the zalmaan 9700 heatsink. u should be able to push 3.2 wit ur qx6700 easily.
Dark Kal
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snograt
But, but, but...
I hadn't even started to overclock yet I bust it transferring it from one case to another. Still can't imagine how. |
Static electricity, maybe you wired something wrong or it could just be coincidence. Normally nothing should get damaged when you move your components from one case to another.
Snograt
I could understand static frying a DIMM, but not a DIMM slot.
Admittedly, in my youthful excitement, my anti-static precautions were somewhat ...lacking.
Admittedly, in my youthful excitement, my anti-static precautions were somewhat ...lacking.
Dark Kal
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snograt
I could understand static frying a DIMM, but not a DIMM slot.
Admittedly, in my youthful excitement, my anti-static precautions were somewhat ...lacking. |
zamial
TEMPS GUIDE
This is not a bible. It is a guide. Different chips will very. If you are uncomfortable, or can not afford to replace a part. simply do not do it. It is also assuming that you are using a good heatsink and fan, not a stock hs/fan.
Cpu chip temps when over clocking should never go above 56c at full load.
above that and you can damage the gates in the chips. The higher it goes over 56c the more likely something can cook. Will it cook at 57c? probably not, but the 56c is the highest "safe" temp.
anther tip:
Never use ntune. If your over clock is stable but temps a little high, start lowering the cpu voltages in the bios. Never use ntune. 1 step at a time. You can easily shave 10c off your cpu temp by doing this. When the instability returns, bump it up 1 setting. Never use ntune.
Did I say never use ntune enough?
TIM:
I have only ever heard of 2 really recommended TIMS (all tho I am sure there are other good products out there) arctic silver5 and the zalman version you "paint on like fingernail polish". These are used on the cpu only. ceramique on the rest of the heat sinks. ceramique is non conductive,
arctic silver is conductive.
Air flow in and out of the case:
This is as important as anything else. Good airflow is a must for computers. Typically you should have 1 exhaust fan and the rest blowing air into the case. The box fan test: If you remove the side of your case and put a box fan blowing on high right in front of it, do your temps drop alot? if so, your case airflow needs work. This is a test and not recommended to run this way all the time.
Still can't get decent temps?
Now its time to lap the heatsink and chip. This means taking 200 grit and better to the top of the chip surface and the heatsink surface that touches the chip. Ideally you want as close to a mirror FLAT surface as you can get. Be warned if you grind to far into the chip or get it to hot while sanding, it will be junk.
Well now we are moving away from air cooling, sorry end of the line.
Currently, I have pushed my system as far as air will take me, now I have a leaf blower for a computer. Water should give me a quieter cooling solution, as well as a larger safe over clock. I am researching and building a custom water solution and will report findings at that time. yes, snog w/ pics.
gpu and most mcp temps:
These can hit 120c. Got some bacon? Do I feel safe at that temp? of course not. I added this number in because it is relevant. Always check with manufacturer for temp tolerances. Just because these components can hit that high of a temp does not mean the components near them can. . .
All above info applies to intel chips and nvidia gpu cards. It is a good rule for amd but amd chips have always run hotter stock. Always check with manufacturer for temp tolerances.
This is not a bible. It is a guide. Different chips will very. If you are uncomfortable, or can not afford to replace a part. simply do not do it. It is also assuming that you are using a good heatsink and fan, not a stock hs/fan.
Cpu chip temps when over clocking should never go above 56c at full load.
above that and you can damage the gates in the chips. The higher it goes over 56c the more likely something can cook. Will it cook at 57c? probably not, but the 56c is the highest "safe" temp.
anther tip:
Never use ntune. If your over clock is stable but temps a little high, start lowering the cpu voltages in the bios. Never use ntune. 1 step at a time. You can easily shave 10c off your cpu temp by doing this. When the instability returns, bump it up 1 setting. Never use ntune.
Did I say never use ntune enough?
TIM:
I have only ever heard of 2 really recommended TIMS (all tho I am sure there are other good products out there) arctic silver5 and the zalman version you "paint on like fingernail polish". These are used on the cpu only. ceramique on the rest of the heat sinks. ceramique is non conductive,
arctic silver is conductive.
Air flow in and out of the case:
This is as important as anything else. Good airflow is a must for computers. Typically you should have 1 exhaust fan and the rest blowing air into the case. The box fan test: If you remove the side of your case and put a box fan blowing on high right in front of it, do your temps drop alot? if so, your case airflow needs work. This is a test and not recommended to run this way all the time.
Still can't get decent temps?
Now its time to lap the heatsink and chip. This means taking 200 grit and better to the top of the chip surface and the heatsink surface that touches the chip. Ideally you want as close to a mirror FLAT surface as you can get. Be warned if you grind to far into the chip or get it to hot while sanding, it will be junk.
Well now we are moving away from air cooling, sorry end of the line.
Currently, I have pushed my system as far as air will take me, now I have a leaf blower for a computer. Water should give me a quieter cooling solution, as well as a larger safe over clock. I am researching and building a custom water solution and will report findings at that time. yes, snog w/ pics.
gpu and most mcp temps:
These can hit 120c. Got some bacon? Do I feel safe at that temp? of course not. I added this number in because it is relevant. Always check with manufacturer for temp tolerances. Just because these components can hit that high of a temp does not mean the components near them can. . .
All above info applies to intel chips and nvidia gpu cards. It is a good rule for amd but amd chips have always run hotter stock. Always check with manufacturer for temp tolerances.
Snograt
Quote:
Originally Posted by zamial
Cpu chip temps when over clocking should never go above 56c at full load.
|
It's all in the (migraine-inducing) datasheets somewhere... http://download.intel.com/design/pro...s/31559205.pdf
Brianna
Quote:
Originally Posted by zamial
TIM:
I have only ever heard of 2 really recommended TIMS (all tho I am sure there are other good products out there) arctic silver5 and the zalman version you "paint on like fingernail polish". These are used on the cpu only. ceramique on the rest of the heat sinks. ceramique is non conductive, arctic silver is conductive. |
My CPU used to run at like 65C under load and that was pretty bad, at stock speeds, so I added a new heat sink and thermal paste and now it doesn't get too hot anymore.
moriz
my cpu fan doesn't speed up under heavy load. i think that's why it can go up to 61C.
could i fix it with a bios update? hmm...
could i fix it with a bios update? hmm...
Brianna
Mayhaps, yeah. It has the ''Smart Fan'' option in the BIOS right? I think mine does, but I have it turned off, too lazy to turn it on.
That, or your fan is buggered, don't know if that is more or less likely though.
That, or your fan is buggered, don't know if that is more or less likely though.
Snograt
Also: I usde Céramique on my CPU. Is that wrong? Nasty, gunky stuff, but it's supposed to be good stuff. Non-conductive would mean it doesn't conduct electricity, so it doesn't matter if you overdo it an get a little on other components, whereas AS5 and other conductors will cause a short in such instances.
I hope to hell they all conduct heat ^^
I hope to hell they all conduct heat ^^
zamial
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snograt
Isn't that dependant on the chip? I'm sure my QX is designed to run happily at higher temperatures than bog-standard Qs. I've seen the figure of 64C bandied around.
It's all in the (migraine-inducing) datasheets somewhere... http://download.intel.com/design/pro...s/31559205.pdf |
Now for the hard truth, the qx6700 @ 62c(these # are listed at stock without oc) produces about 200-215watts of heat. This is a large number for an air cooler to dissipate. A standard single fan radiator maxes out at right around there in the water cooling realm. So, be careful attempting to oc that chip on air. Almost everything I have read on it says, if you want to oc it water cool it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snograt
Also: I usde Céramique on my CPU. Is that wrong? Nasty, gunky stuff, but it's supposed to be good stuff. Non-conductive would mean it doesn't conduct electricity, so it doesn't matter if you overdo it an get a little on other components, whereas AS5 and other conductors will cause a short in such instances.
I hope to hell they all conduct heat ^^ |
If you are afraid of the A.S.5 then I will suggest the zalman "paint on version". 1 coat on the cpu and 1 coat on the heatsink. People seem to be have excellent luck with this product. Also, almost every TIM requires a drying period before it is put into use. I believe the time on A.S.5 is 20 hours, not sure on the zalman.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835118010
Snograt
That Zalman sounds just the job for a klutz like me. http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...20g%20bottl e - as usual, stupid UK prices, but what the hell.
Dark Kal
Quote:
Originally Posted by zamial
Air flow in and out of the case:
This is as important as anything else. Good airflow is a must for computers. Typically you should have 1 exhaust fan and the rest blowing air into the case. |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snograt
I hope to hell they all conduct heat ^^
|
Snograt
Still on back order :/
Quick question: the 780i has SATA2, whereas my existing 680i has "old" SATA. I know SATA2 cannot be connected to SATA, but will my existing SATA drives be ok on a SATA2 interface?
I'm assuming there's no problem, just the normal "restricted to SATA speed" thing.
Quick question: the 780i has SATA2, whereas my existing 680i has "old" SATA. I know SATA2 cannot be connected to SATA, but will my existing SATA drives be ok on a SATA2 interface?
I'm assuming there's no problem, just the normal "restricted to SATA speed" thing.
zamial
There will be no problem running sata. I am running 2 old sata drives at the moment. There are some "issues" with raid arrays and sata optical drives.(unless this was fixed the board doesn't like to do both at the same time.) I have an old IDE optical drive and no raid, also no problems. Basically it is like plugging an old usb device into a usb 2.0 hub. It will work, just not at the fastest speed, rather the slowest of the 2. The difference is 1.5 gb/sec vs. 3 gb /sec. I am waiting on the new raptors to drop in price then I will buy a few.
Snograt
Aw bums - I just got a SATA DVD writer.
zamial
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snograt
Aw bums - I just got a SATA DVD writer.
|
Snograt
Ah cool - I wasn't. The small gains from a RAID array aren't worth the bother, IMO. I'm running a pair of 500GB drives (trusty old WD Caviars), but as solos, not RAIDed.
Cyb3r
yeh the only decent board i ever had with a decent Raid controller was my Good old K8V with a via chip on it, can't say the same about my A8N SE -_-
But dual WD Raptors flown on my old board
But dual WD Raptors flown on my old board
Snograt
I must admit, I keep having furtive glances at those Velociraptors - awesome drives, but pricey. Heh, that sums up PC hobbyism in 3 words: awesome but pricey.
zamial
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snograt
I must admit, I keep having furtive glances at those Velociraptors - awesome drives, but pricey. Heh, that sums up PC hobbyism in 3 words: awesome but pricey.
|
2.5 in. 10,000 rpm hard drives sata2
video cards that are getting their sexy on
monitors that will make you blind
waiting on:
32nm quad cores
ddr3 latency to drop
a sexy mobo to house it all (you know 1 that can support sata2 / dvd burners / and raid at the same time. 16GB of ram. has room for 3 vid cards and a sound card with room for what ever else I need.)
and a cold fusion reactor to power it.
well maybe not the reactor. . .
I have decided to spend up next on a water setup and a new case, I figure after I get that squared away I may be time to look for new hardware. That should be next year or later?
Snograt
Have I ever mentioned the Thermaltake Armor+?
Watch in awe as a "not a geek at all, honest" type guy reviews it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFwMU0y1re4
Watch in awe as a "not a geek at all, honest" type guy reviews it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFwMU0y1re4
zamial
I would post the case I am getting but I fear that the e-peen would rise to a new level. You get pics when its done and not before!
No, its not that nice case you have (yes, I do like your case), as a matter of fact I randomly stumbled upon a link in a link kinda thing upon my new... p..r..e..c..i..o..u..sssssss. My eyes have never seen anything like it before and it haunts me.
I need money, legally of course!
No, its not that nice case you have (yes, I do like your case), as a matter of fact I randomly stumbled upon a link in a link kinda thing upon my new... p..r..e..c..i..o..u..sssssss. My eyes have never seen anything like it before and it haunts me.
I need money, legally of course!
Snograt
Update.
Finally received eVGA 780i.
Everything installed nicely - new SATA DVD too.
Problem #1: Even with the new(ish) PO5 BIOS, it will not allow SLI memory function with all 4 DIMMs installed - 2 EPP or 4 sloooooow.
Problem #2: It resets. Every. 3. Minutes. No errors, no bluescreen, just straight to the initial cursor and back to POST.
Dunno, maybe taking 4 GB out might cure it, maybe she's still running hot. Will run some tests and get some data and get back to you. Reset three times whilst writing this post. Thank god for Firefox
Finally received eVGA 780i.
Everything installed nicely - new SATA DVD too.
Problem #1: Even with the new(ish) PO5 BIOS, it will not allow SLI memory function with all 4 DIMMs installed - 2 EPP or 4 sloooooow.
Problem #2: It resets. Every. 3. Minutes. No errors, no bluescreen, just straight to the initial cursor and back to POST.
Dunno, maybe taking 4 GB out might cure it, maybe she's still running hot. Will run some tests and get some data and get back to you. Reset three times whilst writing this post. Thank god for Firefox
Brianna
Weird.. that really stumps me.
My friend also has some weird problem where every time he raises the resolution the computer just shuts off after a few mins.
Try lowering resolution?
My friend also has some weird problem where every time he raises the resolution the computer just shuts off after a few mins.
Try lowering resolution?
zamial
Quote:
Originally Posted by zamial
I have a 780i motherboard.
It turned out that I had a stable overclock for everything except guildwars . This made no sence at all to me and still does not. This was also during my run of nvldlkm errors. For me I flashed my bios to the p04 and it all went away. I almost sent a hate e-mail to nvidia but decided not to. Anyways I am told repeatedly to flash over to the p05 bios, which I have tried. The p05 ran my cpu 10c hotter and disabled my support for 8gigs of ram. FACTS: (Yes, I know that I can enter the timings mannually but 2 things, 1: The unsupported line during boot makes me insainly angry as in, "ZAMIAL SMASH!!!" 2: It disables functionallity. So, I switched back to p04. P05 fixed a video corruption bug during dvd playback, I have an actual dvd player *gasp* hooked up to a TV. If I want to watch a movie I turn off my comp and head to the couch. Wear and tear on my dvd player and tv is way less than my computer and I do not download illegal items. P05 has nothing, and I mean no benifit, for me at all. If there is another benifit to using this bios that I am unaware of please do tell what it is. As far as I am concerned, someone with my set-up that has paid for, and per advertised on the nvidia site and the sites that sell there product, should sue for false advertising as with the p05 bios it disables items that they claim the board supports. If the board doesn't actually support this, they should recall the ENTIRE lot of them and replace them with a product that does what this 1 claims to do. I have wasted months of my life chasing nvldlkm errors, thinking it was my fault just to find out it was crap-o-la drivers. This is a sore spot for me perhaps when nvidia releases the p06 bios I will be satisfide only time will tell. ) |
Brianna
Saddest thing is that this particular mobo has so many problems, you would figure that if it costs that much then it would have a BIOS that works.
But eh, whatever. That's kind of why I'm torn on what kind of motherboard to buy here in the near future, I just want one that works. I think I'm going to wait for DDR3 to become cheaper/better though.
But eh, whatever. That's kind of why I'm torn on what kind of motherboard to buy here in the near future, I just want one that works. I think I'm going to wait for DDR3 to become cheaper/better though.
Cyb3r
yes, that sounds very annoying snog try with less ram and try entering the settings manual like alot of people said =(
Snograt
Thanks guys. Can't try anything for a few days - under orders to drive wife and kids to mother's for the weekend. At least I was wise enough to go for eVGA - their support is second to none. Damn that POS BIOS. I was told it was so good, too...
Oh, I saw your post Zamiel - made my heart drop, to be sure. If you're having problems, what hope have I got?
See y'all in a couple of days.
(By which time I hope to be green and techy )
Oh, I saw your post Zamiel - made my heart drop, to be sure. If you're having problems, what hope have I got?
See y'all in a couple of days.
(By which time I hope to be green and techy )
Cyb3r
Haha have fun snograt